Category Archives: Spirit Reviews

Classic aperitif meets modern wine bar at – Drink.

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* A version of this column originally ran in Saturday’s on-line edition of the Knoxville News Sentinel.

Sit for a spell

Sit for a spell

I like to drink, you like to drink and I think that’s exactly where we’ll end up.

K-town’s swanky, hip, and mood enlightened drinking establishment, “Drink.” opened a few months ago after years of fashionable planning. The latest venture by Knoxville restaurant magnate, Randy Burleson, “Drink.” is a posh and sleekly polished wine bar located next door to his flagship restaurant, Bistro by the Tracks.

Bistro’s longtime wine and spirits manager, Lana Shackelford, has also taken over the portfolio of Drink.’s three self-serving wine dispensers as well as its full and eclectic collection of spirits. Her aptitude for selecting incredible and unique wines for Knoxvillians to sample is a tribute to her personal research and patient commitment to doing the homework. You’ll notice that just as soon as you circle the collection of wines to choose from, coming across both dependable selections as well as several exclusive wines you’re going to want to instantly learn more about.

Some of Lana's Libations

Some of Lana’s Libations

Lana’s creative application of thought provoking and conversation-starting names for her seasonal cocktails are just as appealing as the wine selection. And a recent meet up offered a challenge to her innovation by crafting imaginative cocktails using the nearly 100-year-old classic Italian aperitif known as Aperol.

In Italy, Aperol and Prosecco (Italy’s famed sparkling wine) go together as well and as often as prosciutto and cantaloupe. Known for its orangey, herby flavor profile and vivid blood orange color, Aperol’s lower alcohol content makes for an irreplaceable and inspiring mixer in cocktails.

Take for example Lana’s enhanced and Italian-inspired rendition of the aforementioned Aperol and Prosecco spritzer. The “Vespa” cocktail adds the influential elderflower element of St~Germain Liqueur to the traditional recipe. The result is an off-sweet cocktail, with a slow and soft fizz development. The “Vespa” successfully combines that subtle orange undertone to an inquisitive floral cocktail. It will have you humming along for the ride.

Everyday Patron

Everyday Patron

A second experiment in Aperol mixology spawned “Rosemary’s other baby.” With a clever take on Nashville- made Corsair Gin, Lana was able to balance some of the Aperol’s fruity nature. Corsair creates one of the more unique gin interpretations with its woodsy aromas and Indian-like spiciness. Throw in a little muddled rosemary and you have an angelic combination of the herb’s evergreen fragrance, the gin’s offbeat attribute and Aperol’s predisposition towards bright citrus and freshness. It’s the kind of shared drink that makes for better neighbors.

One might think Aperol’s flexibility would have been proven well enough after tasty run-ins with Italian Prosecco, or French liqueur or Tennessee gin. But a rendezvous with tequila shows its strength as well in appealing to south-of-the-border libations, namely Mexico’s distinctive Don Julio Reposado Tequila. With lime juice, honey, and bitters mixed together with the Aperol and Don Julio, the “Spaghetti Western” is reborn. This is Italian fashionista meets Cinco de Mayo, simultaneously chic and festive.

Are you thirsty now?

Are you thirsty now?

Culinary creations in a glass

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* A version of the following article was first published in Saturday’s on-line edition of the Knoxville News Sentinel.

Cilantro, Peach, Cucumber and Lime

Cilantro, Peach, Cucumber and Lime

Back in the 1980’s vodka took its first small step into the world of flavored spirits. With the American launch of Absolut Peppar, the world of Bloody Mary’s and indeed vodka would never be the same. Today, flavored vodkas are everywhere and being made by almost everyone who distills vodka. A stroll down the vodka aisle shows just how much the category has grown from the pepper or citrus-based beginnings to the threshold-pushing flavors of bacon, bubble gum and even birthday cake.

Muddling through the bizarre efforts of some vodka distillers can be formidable, so recently I sat down at the Grill At Highlands Row to talk turkey (did I just create a new flavor) with Chad Barger, general manager at the Grill. Along with bartender Laura Musgrave, we wanted to examine some of the more culinary-driven flavored vodkas and see just what creative and enjoyable mixed drinks we could invent.

A few years ago the Sazerac Company (purveyors of outstanding Bourbon) launched an organic vodka with unusual flavors of cucumber and lime called Rain. Musgrave, who has been with the Grill At Highlands Row since it opened in 2010, took the Rain Vodka and quickly focused in on a mojito influence with the mixing of muddled mint, lime and simple syrup to the already cucumber enhanced vodka. The result was a savory, balanced cocktail with an air of freshness to it.

With Musgrave’s creation, dubbed the Muddler in the Rain, she was able to walk the fine line of the citrus influence. Too much would have overshadowed the cucumber and not enough would have meant loosing that crispness and thus balance of the drink.

With the Nielsen ratings showing that premium vodkas were up over 33% last year, it was no surprise when the trendsetters at Absolut rolled out a new premium vodka in 2013. Little did anyone know; however, that the line extension would include the popular herb of cilantro.

Cilantro is one of the few things that my wife and I disagree on. You either love it or hate it for its floral, herbaceous nature. And obviously Absolut was thinking of culinary-influenced mix drinks when they created this herb-guided vodka. So, I was enthusiastic when Barger and Musgrave collaborated to concoct two killer cocktails with this uniquely flavored spirit.

The first creation was a mix of the Absolut Cilantro and Lime with some ginger beer, lemon and lime juice. For all of those who enjoy a nice pre-dinner cocktail to stimulate the appetite, this “Appetizer Cocktail” is just for you. The piquancy of the ginger plays out nicely to the late arriving but appetite-building cilantro.

Second, they fashioned a full-circle tribute to the whole reason Absolut introduced its first pepper-flavored vodka 27 years ago, the iconic cocktail – the Bloody Mary. With the Absolut Cilantro and Lime being mixed with Musgrave’s zinged up rendition of Zing Zang Bloody Mary Mix, they added a garnish of in-house jalapeño stuffed olives. It’s the perfect prelude to some shrimp and grits for Sunday brunch.

Finally, as a lover of all things Italian I was eager to sample a third flavored vodka invention, the “Epic Bellini.” A natural twist on the Italian Bellini, it is a simple mix of prosecco and Knoxville’s newest vodka brand, Epic. Wonderfully aromatic and true to its fruit source, the Epic Peach flavor offers a jazzed up version of the classic Venetian cocktail with a garnish of blood orange.

Straight off the shelf, flavored vodkas may not be for everyone. But with the proper mixology and some professional advice culinary delights can be a sip away.

Bourbon leads straight to Kentucky

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* The following article originally appeared in Saturday’s online edition of the Knoxville News Sentinel.

Corn may not grow at all on old Rocky Top but they have managed to find enough just north of us to make some of the best American whiskeys, namely Kentucky Straight Bourbon.

Kentucky Straight Bourbon has several requirements for authentic production. These include being comprised and made from a majority of corn grain, a minimal aging of at least two years in charred oak barrels and no addition of artificial flavorings or colorings. The result is a pure bottle of American tradition that has survived the setbacks of both war and Prohibition. The following five bourbons are all produced at Kentucky’s legendary Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort.

E.H.Taylor Bourbon

If Kentucky Straight Bourbon had a post-Civil War godfather, his name would irrefutably be Edmund Haynes Taylor. One of the early architects in both modernizing and defining bourbon techniques and specifications, Taylor has been immortalized through craft production bourbons made at the Buffalo Trace Distillery. Its E.H. Taylor Jr. Collection includes a “Small Batch” bourbon that strikes a perfect balance between an ultra-polished, sweet-smelling whiskey and a brawny, flavorful one with a dead-on amount of edginess. Sumptuous aromatics of brown sugar and butterscotch infuse a glass of this attractively, amber-colored bourbon, leaving little room for second-guessing what your new favorite bourbon is likely to be.

Successfully combining Kentucky’s two iconic images — that of bourbon and horseracing — can be as simple and seductive as a fresh Mint Julep on Derby Day or as unique and commemorative as Blanton’s Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon. Blanton’s 93 proof is a golden, straw-colored bourbon with warm aromas of vanilla bean and caramel. Designated as the “Original”, Blanton’s Single Barrel (like all its distinguished bourbons) is topped with a Kentucky-appropriate, pewter-like stopper resembling a racing horse and jockey. There may be no better way to celebrate all things Kentucky than with Blanton’s at Churchill Downs on the first Saturday in May.

Aged for a sturdy 10 years, Eagle Rare Single Barrel reveals a dessert-like bouquet of banana-laden banoffee pie and a freshly caramelized crème brule. But don’t be fooled by all that post-dinner revelry; its underlying structure is one of leather and grass. And it is that very concept of being so well-rounded that makes the journey from rich aromas to rugged flavors an adventure in every Glencairn glass.

Similar in undertone to the Eagle Rare is Buffalo Trace’s Kentucky Straight Bourbon. Both are 90 proof and carry that same distinct delivery. But the Buffalo Trace separates itself from the crowd with a deeper richness of nut bread or heavy cake.

Finally, no tour of bourbon force would be complete without a mention of the Elmer T. Lee Single Barrel. Its golden color and lighter aromas produce a polished, rounded texture with subtle caramel notes.

Not your grandmother’s gin

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* The following article originally appeared in Saturday’s online edition of the Knoxville News Sentinel.

Gin has the discouraging reputation as being the preferred spirit of an anachronistic era when taste buds were seemingly immune to the notion of wincing.

From its early Dutch and English origins, gin amassed the ignoble status as a cheap, easily available spirit that went from being “mother’s ruin” in England to the homemade American version in countless, Prohibition-era bathtubs. At times, its quality was so poor that it probably could have used a good scrubbing.

That being said, this herbal-inspired libation has moved well beyond its Swann Rubbing Alcohol predilections and into unique interpretations by numerous, modern-day gin distillers.

gin

A new favorite of mine comes from an Atlantic island just off Scotland’s western coast. The Botanist Gin boasts a whopping 31 botanicals, including 22 “native” botanicals from the island of Islay. With some heartier aromas, this 92 proof gin is a clean representation that receives my PDS award, or Pretty Damn Smooth. Excellent on the rocks, it also makes one of the better gin and tonics that I’ve had in awhile.

Not to be outdone, France’s Magellan Gin isn’t shy in displaying the “grains of paradise” that have encouraged its panache as a well-seasoned international traveler, including Iris flower, cardamom, orange peel, cassia and half a dozen other herbals. Named for the world’s most renowned explorer, Magellan is a floral, striking translation of gin with an exotically ice blue tint. Lovers of the juniper berry and aromatic style gin have to put this on their list.

The steep 94 proof Broker’s Gin from England carries the banner as a more traditional gin. Medicinal in nature with a focused delivery, Broker’s could have conventional gin connoisseurs showing their approval with a mere tip of the old top hat.

Also distilled in England is Martin Miller’s Gin. For those looking for a not-so-dry gin, Miller’s flavor profile of sweeter botanicals and a fruitier nature is unequalled. Blended with Icelandic water, Martin’s Gin makes for an ideal introduction to this oft-maligned liquor category.

Finally, if you’re part of the “buy local” movement, you won’t have to look to Europe or even outside of Tennessee to fill the gin supply line. In fact, the not-too-far-away Music City has its own melodic gin to sing about. The first thing you’ll notice about Corsair is its curious aroma. With heavier notes of coriander and cumin-like aromas, Nashville’s Corsair Gin (with a splash of club soda) makes a fantastic pre-dinner appetite builder. Also well suited for a slew of martini recipes, Corsair Gin carries that adaptable and exemplary modern-day swagger.

The new Scotch is not a re-Peat

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* This column was originally published in the Knoxville News Sentinel.

If you’ve ever taken a long train ride into the Scottish Highlands, you know that you’re likely to see more sheep, inexplicably dotting steep mountainsides, than you are to see trees. These areas are often barren and limited in vegetation. Because of this, the long history of whisky making in Scotland has been singularly dictated by the source of fuel needed to toast the barley grains, which in turn created great malt whiskies.

Not to be denied the pleasurable warmth of a nice whisky, the great Scots relied on the burning of dried peat moss as a natural and cheap source of fuel in their whisky making process. The peat, in turn, produced toasted malts with smoky, earthy and musky notes that, out of necessity, became the trademark characteristic of Scottish whisky.

Eventually though, all of that began to change with the industrial revolution as alternative sources of fuel became accessible deep into the remote areas of northern Scotland and indeed many of the isles. With transportation facilitating the access to these sources, it also established a supply line for malts that weren’t as smoky or for that matter pre-disposed to peat at all.

Fast-forward to modern trends in making Scotch whisky and any purveyor can tell you that the new Scotches, hitting the store shelves, mostly seem to be avoiding that old-school peaty style. In fact, today’s new malt whiskies place more emphasis on what they’re aging their product in, namely unique and diverse barrels that once were homes to sherry, port, sauterne, madeira and just about anything else just shy of root beer.

Naturally, this new trend is designed to introduce more consumers to Scotch as these different casks greatly alter the final whisky into something less austere and more likely to be enjoyed en masse. If you want to get a sense of this newer, less peaty style, then the following four whiskies offer differing insight into today’s new Scotch.

Glenmorangie Nectar D’Or 12 year (glen-MORE-an-jee)

Aged in French Sauterne casks, Glenmorangie’s “Golden Nectar” creates a substantially sweater aroma, reminiscent of a traditional Irish whisky. A bouquet of orange peel and ginger ale compliments a honeyed finish and a Sauterne-inspired nuance of honeysuckle.

Balvenie DoubleWood 12 year (Bol-VAINNY)

As far as experimenting with new interpretations of Scotch whisky, the Balvenie Distillery is perhaps one of the original pioneers in this modern whisky movement. Its DoubleWood 12 year whisky sees aging time in both a whisky oak barrel as well as a sherry oak one. The result is a Speyside whisky with minimal peat influence that shows off caramelized brown sugar notes, warm vanilla aromas and a fluid, mellow mid-palate.

Bruichladdich Rocks (broo-kladdie)

The western Isle of Islay is known for making some of the peatiest, smokiest whiskies in all of Scotland. So, it’s a bit ironic that the Islay based Bruichladdich Distillery decided to produce this completely unpeated whisky. Bruichladdich Rocks has scents of warm cake and vanilla with just the faintest of medicinal finishes.

Glengoyne 10 year (glen-goin)

Since a very good Scottish-born friend recently recommended the Glengoyne 10 year, it’s the next whisky on my list to sample. Located halfway between the Eden-like Loch Lomond and the workingman’s capital of Glasgow, the Glengoyne Distillery produces an unpeated, 10-year whisky. And I can’t wait to try a not-so-wee dram of this insider information.